The Piolets d'Or committee has announced its 'Big List' of 74 significant alpine-style expeditions undertaken in 2024. These remarkable climbs span 14 diverse regions worldwide, encompassing iconic mountain ranges such as the Himalayas, the vast icy expanse of Greenland, the majestic peaks of South America, and, notably, a return to China after several years. Each selected ascent demonstrates exceptional innovation and adherence to lightweight climbing principles.
Accompanying the release of the 'Big List,' the names of the esteemed jury members responsible for selecting the ultimate award recipients have also been revealed. This distinguished panel includes Ethan Berman (U.S.), Aymeric Clouet (France), Young Hoon Oh (South Korea), Ines Papert (Germany), Enrico Rosso (Italy), Jack Tackle (U.S.), and Mikel Zabalza (Spain). Their expertise will guide the rigorous evaluation process to determine the year's most outstanding climbing achievements.
Unsurprisingly, Nepal emerged as the leading location for nominated climbs, boasting 16 entries on the 'Big List.' Following closely, and perhaps unexpectedly, were the European Alps, surpassing traditional climbing hubs like Pakistan and the Andes. The Alps, the historic birthplace of the Piolets d'Or, showcased nine impressive new routes on classic summits such as The Petit Dru, The Civetta, and the Barre des Ecrins.
A new and exciting development for the Golden Ice Axes is the introduction of a category dedicated to 'Performance in the Alps.' This recognizes exceptional long-distance endurance feats accomplished without motorized assistance. Notable achievements in this category include Kilian Jornet's traverse of all 4,000-meter peaks in the Alps over 19 days, and the Drus-Droites-Grandes Jorasses traverse by Leo Billon and Benjamin Vedrines. This addition reflects the evolving landscape of alpine athleticism and performance.
Several climbers have earned multiple nominations for their outstanding contributions. Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, a renowned figure in the climbing community, received three nominations for his diverse expeditions: the inaugural free ascent of 'Riders on the Storm' on Torre Central del Paine, a new route on Greenland's Mirror Wall, and his solo traverse of the four peaks of Torres del Paine. Similarly, Baptiste Obino of France's Military High Mountain Group garnered three nominations for his challenging routes on the Barre des Ecrins and two on the Petit Dru.
While all climbs on the 'Big List' are considered significant adventures, not every one is eligible for a Piolet d'Or award. The committee emphasizes that tragic incidents during expeditions can preclude them from consideration. This includes the highly challenging new route on Langtang Lirung by Marek Holecek and Ondrej Husherka. Although they successfully summited, Husherka's subsequent death during the descent means their climb, despite its boldness, is not eligible for the main award, aligning with the Piolet d'Or's long-standing policy.
In a progressive move, the Piolets d'Or committee has established a Special Mention category to actively promote and celebrate female alpinism. While several women's teams are included on the 'Big List,' the jury has already announced its choice for the top female expedition of the previous year. The honor goes to Anja Petek and Patricija Verdev of Slovenia for their pioneering ascent of the 6,243-meter Lalung I, located in a remote valley between Zanskar and Kirstwar in the Indian Himalayas. Their route, dubbed 'Here Comes the Sun,' involved five days of challenging climbing, including an arduous descent following a successful summit.
In recent years, the Piolets d'Or organizers have opted to announce the main award winners and the recipient of the Walter Bonatti lifetime achievement award prior to the official ceremony. This approach transforms the event itself into a joyous celebration of alpinism and its core values, rather than a suspense-filled competition, allowing for a deeper appreciation of the collective achievements within the climbing community.