Conquering the 'Killer Mountain': A Season's Unfolding Drama
Early Ascents and the Cost of Ambition: The Kinshofer Route's First Summits
As the Nanga Parbat season commenced, initial worries about sparse climbing activity due to geopolitical issues quickly dissipated. While the Kinshofer route saw fewer teams than usual, this provided a unique opportunity for those present to experience the mountain without the typical congestion. The base camp, unexpectedly vibrant with blooming flora, coupled with unusually warm weather, set an idyllic, albeit deceptive, scene. Yet, these very conditions, conducive to pleasant climbing, paradoxically led to treacherous melting ice and rockfall, claiming one life and necessitating multiple rescues. This summary details the season's notable ascents, the challenges encountered, and the unfortunate incidents.
First to the Top: The Price of Pioneering
The majority of climbers were affiliated with Seven Summit Treks, whose Sherpa teams efficiently established fixed ropes. Separately, a smaller group managed by Blue Sky Treks & Tours operated from an alternative base camp. Despite the fixed ropes extending only to Camp 3, two Czech climbers, Marek Novotny and Ondra Hlasny, decided to push for the summit independently, ahead of the main group. They successfully made the first ascent of the season but paid a steep price. Horia Colibasanu reported that their extended bivouac, coupled with one climber's failure to remove his boots for days, resulted in severe frostbite to several toes, while his partner sustained minor injuries. Their bold, yet premature, attempt highlighted the inherent risks of such endeavors.
The Grand Push: Diverse Approaches to the Summit
Following the early ascents, almost every remaining climber at Base Camp began their summit push during the subsequent weekend. However, their methods, speed, and proficiency varied significantly. A notable challenge this year was the lower section of the route, specifically between Base Camp and Camp 3. This segment was particularly hazardous due to extensive stretches of unstable rock, frequent rockfall, and sections of aged, hard black ice where even the sharpest crampons struggled to find purchase.
July 3: The Initial Wave of Conquest
The first large group reached the summit on July 3. Their Sherpa support was crucial, as they fixed ropes during the ascent. Despite generally mild conditions, strong winds, reportedly up to 60 kph, tested the climbers' resolve. Dorota Rasisnzka-Samocko recounted the arduous and lengthy summit day. Climbers utilizing supplemental oxygen began their ascent from Camp 3. Seven Summit Treks confirmed that four international climbers, accompanied by four guides from Nepal and Pakistan, successfully made it to the top. Meanwhile, others like Horia Colibasanu, climbing without bottled oxygen or Sherpa support, and Allie Pepper of Australia, with Mikel Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa, opted for a different strategy. They established an additional Camp 4 at approximately 7,000 meters, aiming for a shorter and safer summit day, which they achieved the following morning.
July 4: Unassisted Triumphs on the Peak
On the second day of the summit window, July 4, three climbers achieved the arduous ascent without the aid of supplemental oxygen. Among them was Romania's Horia Colibasanu, marking his eleventh successful climb of an 8,000-meter peak. He was joined by two resilient Pakistani climbers, Sohail Sakhi from Hunza and Ashraf Sadpara, the latter hailing from the village of Sadpara, known for its strong mountaineering tradition. Their unassisted ascents underscored their exceptional skill and endurance on the challenging mountain.
Perils and Rescues: The Dark Side of the Descent
The night of July 3 witnessed a devastating turn of events. Klara Kolouchova, a Czech climber, feeling too exhausted to continue her summit attempt, decided to descend from Camp 3. Rather than waiting until daylight, she requested her Sherpa to accompany her down to Base Camp immediately, under the cover of darkness. The tragic fall occurred just above the Kinshofer Wall, in the challenging terrain between Camps 2 and 3. The Sherpa was unable to precisely witness the incident or ascertain where Kolouchova fell. Other climbers on the mountain later noted the presence of several crevasses in that particular area, highlighting the extreme dangers of a nighttime descent. On July 6, helicopter searches of the Kinshofer route and surrounding areas unfortunately failed to locate the missing climber.
During his descent from the summit, Colibasanu encountered Saad Mohammed in a precarious situation, stranded on a ledge midway up the Kinshofer Wall. Mohammed had accidentally dropped his rappelling device. Colibasanu, demonstrating remarkable expertise and composure, instructed him on how to execute a Munter hitch knot using a carabiner to continue his descent. After ensuring Mohammed's safety and progress for an hour, Colibasanu continued his own way down. He later learned that two high-altitude porters had been dispatched from Base Camp to assist Mohammed. Concurrently, Mohammed's climbing partner, Tasheen, also required assistance during his own descent. Separately, Asma Al Thani, a Qatari princess and experienced climber with Elite Exped, sustained an injury during her descent, requiring stitches at Base Camp. Fortunately, her injuries were not life-threatening, and she recovered safely.