newsgathers

Climbing teams have made swift ascents to the peaks of Dhaulagiri and Cho Oyu, seizing a precious window of clear weather that is now rapidly deteriorating. This period has seen numerous successful summit bids on both challenging mountains, marking significant achievements for both organized expeditions and independent climbers alike, before the weather turns adverse.

Dhaulagiri has been particularly active recently, with daily reports of successful summits since the previous weekend. This is a notable accomplishment for a mountain known for its unpredictable and often difficult conditions. While most commercial groups have completed their ascents and begun their descent, several independent mountaineers are still on the mountain. Among these are Russian skiers Vitaly Lazo and Anton Pugovkin, who have progressed to Camp 2 and are currently resting at Base Camp. In a separate incident, Hungarian climber Narcy Nagi had to be evacuated due to severe stomach issues, with his climbing partner, David Klein, accompanying him as a translator. Klein has indicated he may return to the climb once Nagi's condition stabilizes.

Meanwhile, Piotr Krzyzowski from Poland achieved his tenth 8,000-meter peak summit without the aid of supplemental oxygen or personal Sherpa support earlier this morning. He reported a challenging descent back to Camp 2 through whiteout conditions, further confirming the end of the extended period of good weather. Forecasts for Dhaulagiri indicate a shift to more severe conditions, emphasizing the narrowness of the successful climbing window.

On Cho Oyu, located in Tibet, a group of climbers reached the summit yesterday via the standard route. The Furtenbach Adventures team was among the successful parties, with their leader, Dave Watson, notably displaying a flag honoring the late rock icon Ozzy Osbourne at the summit. Mingma Tenzi Sherpa also completed his quest of summiting all 14 8,000-meter peaks, though it remains unconfirmed whether he was acting as a guide during this particular ascent. He has previously guided notable figures such as Princess Asma Al Thani of Qatar. Other teams, like Adventure Consultants, are positioned at Camp 1, while Madison Mountaineering’s group has returned from their initial camp, likely adjusting to the changing weather patterns.

The recent flurry of summit successes on Dhaulagiri and Cho Oyu underscores the critical importance of weather in high-altitude mountaineering. Climbers capitalized on a rare period of stability, pushing for the top before the anticipated change in conditions. The narratives from both mountains highlight the enduring spirit of adventure, the physical and mental fortitude required, and the ever-present risks inherent in tackling some of the world's highest peaks as the season's favorable weather draws to a close.