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This comprehensive report chronicles the extraordinary endeavors to scale Cho Oyu, the world's sixth-highest mountain, focusing specifically on the arduous and technically demanding routes on its Nepalese face. Unlike the more accessible Tibetan side, the Nepalese approaches are characterized by steep inclines, treacherous avalanche risks, and volatile weather patterns, making each successful ascent a testament to human courage and resilience. The article details pivotal expeditions, from controversial first attempts to groundbreaking winter climbs and innovative new routes, showcasing the evolution of high-altitude mountaineering and the profound challenges faced by those who dare to conquer this majestic peak.

A Detailed Account of Cho Oyu's Nepalese Ascents

The history of climbing Cho Oyu from Nepal is a narrative of extraordinary human endurance, strategic innovation, and profound personal sacrifice. Situated 20 kilometers west of Mount Everest, on the border between Tibet and Nepal, Cho Oyu presents a stark contrast in its northern (Tibetan) and southern (Nepalese) faces. While the Tibetan route is relatively straightforward and commonly used by commercial expeditions, the Nepalese side, with its sheer cliffs, high avalanche danger, and unpredictable meteorological conditions, has consistently attracted elite mountaineers seeking the ultimate challenge.

One of the earliest and most contentious attempts on the Nepalese side occurred in October 1978. An Austrian-German team, under the leadership of Eduard Koblmueller, embarked on an unauthorized expedition to conquer the formidable Southeast Face. This ambitious undertaking, which mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner had previously deemed insurmountable, involved transporting 250 kilograms of equipment to a base camp at 5,000 meters. The team, comprising Koblmueller, Alois Furtner, Peter Von Gizicky, Gerhard Haberl, and Herbert Spousta, faced a daunting 3,000-meter wall of ice-laden rock, dangerous snow plateaus, and steep ice channels. Despite operating without supplemental oxygen or Sherpa assistance, Koblmueller and Furtner successfully reached the summit on October 27, witnessing a breathtaking sunset over Everest. The expedition, however, was not without its trials; Haberl suffered frostbite, and Gizycki and Spousta were forced to retreat. A severe snowstorm trapped the team at 6,600 meters, but they all safely descended by November 1. This ascent ignited a fierce debate within the climbing community regarding whether they had indeed scaled the Southeast Face or a less difficult route, a controversy partially resolved by Messner's endorsement after reviewing the team's photographs. As a consequence of climbing without the necessary permits, Nepal's Ministry of Tourism issued a five-year ban on the team.

A significant milestone was achieved in February 1985 with the first winter ascent of Cho Oyu, led by Polish-Canadian expedition leader Andrzej Zawada. This team, which included legendary climbers Jerzy Kukuczka, Zygmunt A. Heinrich, Maciej Berbeka, and Maciej Pawlikowski, tackled the treacherous Southeast Pillar. Enduring brutal winter conditions, they established five camps, reaching 7,600 meters without bottled oxygen. On February 12, Berbeka and Pawlikowski triumphantly summited, navigating through dense mist and severe technical difficulties. Kukuczka and Heinrich followed on February 15, planting Polish, Nepalese, and German flags, and marveling at the panoramic views despite sub-zero temperatures and ferocious winds. The descent proved perilous, with Kukuczka sustaining frostbite and Heinrich suffering a leg injury from rockfall. This achievement marked Kukuczka's eighth 8,000-meter peak ascent and his second in a single month, setting a new record for rapid ascents in Nepal.

The autumn of 1990 saw another notable achievement when Voytek Kurtyka, Erhard Loretan, and Jean Troillet forged a new route, ascending Cho Oyu's Southwest Face and descending via the West Ridge, all without supplemental oxygen. They reported that the most challenging segment was a section of deep snow and rock above a couloir. This route was later adapted by Japanese climber Yasushi Yamanoi, who summited a new variation in September 1994, also without bottled oxygen.

In the autumn of 1991, a Russian expedition, comprising 14 Russians, one Ukrainian, and one Bashkir, led by Sergey Efimov, successfully established a new route along the Southeast Ridge-East Ridge. This route, previously unclimbed despite multiple attempts, required extensive rope fixing across treacherous icefalls and challenging rock formations. The team navigated complex terrain, including a critical 200-meter traverse over 80-degree rock faces. On October 20, Ivan Plotnikov, Eugeny Vinogradsky, Alexsander Yakovenko, Valeri Pershin, and Sergey Bogomolov reached the summit without supplemental oxygen. Tragically, during the descent on October 21, Yuri Grebeniuk, the team's surgeon, was fatally struck by a falling rock in a gully. His teammates, unable to move his body due to the difficult terrain, left him on a ledge, a somber reminder of the mountain's unforgiving nature.

The spring of 2009 brought another audacious ascent by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko from Kazakhstan. They undertook an alpine-style climb of the Southeast Face, establishing a new route they christened \"Reincarnation.\" Urubko, who had been drawn to the face since 2001, described it as both \"terrifying and beautiful.\" After a period of acclimatization, including ascents of Chhukung Peak and the Ngozumba massif, they established base camps and began their summit push on May 6. Their ascent involved navigating steep rock sections, enduring avalanches, and braving a severe storm. On May 11, despite deteriorating weather, Urubko and Dedeshko summited at 8:10 PM. This marked Urubko's 14th 8,000-meter peak, a feat that left him feeling \"empty and transparent, like glass.\" The descent was fraught with danger, including buried tents and a rock striking Urubko's head. They returned to base camp by May 15, exhausted and frostbitten, having left no gear behind, using only 1,200 meters of rope repeatedly. Urubko considered this his most dangerous climb.

Following Urubko and Dedeshko's groundbreaking ascent, successful climbs from the Nepalese side remained elusive until 2024. Teams in 2022 and 2023 faced setbacks due to avalanches and adverse weather. However, in 2024, a Seven Summit Treks team, including Alasdair McKenzie, Tenjing Gyalzen, Lakpa Temba, Lakpa Tenji, Ngima Ongda, Chhangba, and Gelje Sherpa, successfully established a route via the South-Southwest Ridge, utilizing supplemental oxygen. Currently, Czech climbers Marek Holecek and Radoslav Groh are at Cho Oyu, aiming to open yet another new alpine-style route on the Southeast Face, continuing the legacy of exploration and extreme mountaineering on this formidable peak.

The enduring allure of Cho Oyu's Nepalese face speaks volumes about the human spirit's unyielding desire for exploration and conquest. Each expedition, whether successful or tragic, adds another layer to the mountain's rich history, offering invaluable lessons in preparation, resilience, and the profound respect due to nature's most majestic and dangerous landscapes. These narratives inspire not only future climbers but also anyone who dares to push the boundaries of what is thought possible.