newsgathers

American ultrarunner Tyler Andrews is on the cusp of an ambitious endeavor: a record-breaking, unsupported ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. His attempt, scheduled to commence tomorrow evening from Base Camp, aims to surpass the existing fastest known time (FKT) for a no-oxygen summit. Furthermore, Andrews is considering extending this challenge to include a round trip, descending back to Base Camp immediately after reaching the peak, a rare and formidable undertaking that few have dared to attempt without oxygen support.

Andrews' primary objective is to shatter Kaji Sherpa's 1998 record of 20 hours and 24 minutes for an oxygen-free climb from Base Camp to the summit. His strategy involves a nocturnal ascent, departing Base Camp at 7 PM Nepal time on Tuesday, with the goal of reaching the summit by Wednesday morning. This approach is designed to leverage cooler temperatures and potentially less crowded conditions, critical factors in such a demanding climb. The decision to potentially attempt a full round trip, ascending and descending without supplemental oxygen, underscores his extraordinary endurance and commitment to pushing the boundaries of human achievement in high-altitude mountaineering. Such a feat would not only redefine Everest FKTs but also cement his place among the most elite mountaineers.

The current landscape of Everest challenges reveals a shifting focus towards self-sufficiency. Prior to 2025, a dedicated effort for the fastest round trip on Everest without bottled oxygen had not been formally pursued, highlighting the immense risks involved. The very act of summitting the world's highest mountain without artificial oxygen and ensuring a safe return is considered an achievement of monumental proportions. Last spring, Andrews undertook three separate attempts for the Base Camp-to-summit FKT. Concurrently, Karl Egloff of Ecuador also made a no-oxygen round trip attempt but was forced to retreat before Camp 3 due to severe conditions, illustrating the unforgiving nature of Everest even for seasoned climbers.

Andrews' commitment to a solo, unsupported, and no-oxygen climb emphasizes a purist approach to mountaineering. Although fixed ropes are typically present along the route, the extent of their coverage remains uncertain. An unsupported climb signifies that Andrews will not rely on pre-placed supplies at higher camps, adding another layer of difficulty to his expedition. The finer details of his climb are expected to emerge once he completes his attempt, as he has chosen to announce his methods as he progresses. To prepare for this formidable challenge, Andrews has been acclimating in the Khumbu Valley, engaging in regular running and climbing activities, and seeking blessings at the Tengboche monastery. His climbing partner, Chris Fisher, has joined him to manage communications and track his live progress, ensuring a vital link to the outside world.

In parallel, the mountaineering community awaits news from Polish skier Andrzej Bargiel, who is also contemplating a no-oxygen summit of Everest, followed by a ski descent back to Base Camp. Bargiel, known for his audacious ski descents from formidable peaks, recently indicated a brief pause to assess weather conditions. Similar to Andrews, Bargiel intends to undertake his expedition without supplemental oxygen or personal Sherpa support. Notably, his team does not possess summit permits, suggesting a solo ascent, albeit with a film crew, including his brother Bartek operating a drone, reminiscent of his K2 expedition in 2018. These parallel, high-stakes endeavors by Andrews and Bargiel epitomize the relentless human drive to explore and conquer the planet's most extreme environments.

These expeditions by Tyler Andrews and Andrzej Bargiel represent a pinnacle of human endurance and mountaineering skill. Their attempts to achieve FKTs on Everest, whether by foot or by ski, and crucially, without supplemental oxygen, push the boundaries of what is considered possible. Their solo and unsupported approaches further amplify the challenge, underscoring a deep commitment to pure mountaineering ethics. The world watches with bated breath as these athletes prepare to test their limits against the formidable might of Mount Everest.