newsgathers

Pioneering New Horizons on Manaslu's Uncharted Terrain

A Daring Venture on Manaslu's Remote Southwest Face

While numerous climbers navigate the established paths on Manaslu, a Russian team comprising Andrey Vasiliev, Sergey Kondrashkin, Vitaly Shipilov, and Kirill Eiseman has chosen a more solitary and demanding quest. They are currently focused on opening a new route on the rarely approached Southwest Face of the peak.

The Allure of the Untrodden Path

The Southwest Face of Manaslu presents formidable challenges, including its extreme difficulty, remote location, and the untouched central line that the team aims to conquer. These very obstacles, however, are what draw the Russian mountaineers, who have a history of tackling daunting ascents, including their previous attempts on the South Face of Cho Oyu in 2023 and 2024.

Acclimatization Efforts and Expedition Strategy

Currently, the team is undergoing acclimatization on Manaslu's standard route. Recent dispatches indicate their progression towards higher camps, a crucial phase in preparing for the extreme conditions of their chosen ascent. Their past expeditions suggest a methodical approach, employing traditional Himalayan tactics involving repeated ascents and descents to establish fixed ropes and secure technical sections.

Echoes of History: Messner's Groundbreaking Ascent

The Southwest Face holds a storied past, notably with Reinhold Messner's pioneering no-oxygen ascent in 1972. This historic climb was marred by tragedy, with the loss of his climbing partner, Franz Jaeger, and another team member during the descent and subsequent rescue efforts. Messner's route, which circumvents the central part of the face, has since become the second most frequently ascended path on Manaslu.

The Undaunted Central Line: A New Frontier

Despite Messner's significant achievement and subsequent repetitions of his route, the central section of Manaslu's Southwest Face has remained untouched by climbers. This untouched expanse represents the ultimate challenge for the Russian team, who are set to carve their own legacy on this imposing Himalayan giant.

Contemporary Expeditions and Future Prospects

Expeditions on the lesser-known sides of Manaslu are uncommon. A recent attempt in 2022 by a French trio on the West Face was thwarted by adverse weather conditions. The climbing community eagerly awaits further updates from the Russian team regarding their strategic plans and progress on this ambitious and potentially historic ascent.