Italy, a land rich in historical tapestries, stands as an expansive open-air museum. From its northern reaches to its southern tip, towns are adorned with ancient Roman structures and UNESCO World Heritage sites, keeping their storied past vibrant. The country is celebrated for its medieval settlements, where the hands of time appear to have paused. Among these, Santo Stefano di Sessanio, nestled within the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park in Abruzzo, offers an authentic retreat brimming with local gastronomy and artisanal creations. Perched atop a hill, this village, situated in the region dubbed "Little Tibet" for its striking lunar terrain, pastoral sheep, and profound tranquility, is lauded as one of Italy's most picturesque towns.
The origins of this village stretch back to the Middle Ages, specifically between the 9th and 12th centuries, built upon the foundations of ancient Sextantio. The Medici family's stewardship brought prosperity, fueled by a robust agricultural system, transhumance-based economy, and the production of wool for military attire and monastic garments. Under Medici influence, the town was beautified with Tuscan architectural elements, including arched entrances embellished with floral motifs, mullioned windows, and decorative corbels. Despite an economic decline in the 19th century and significant damage from the 2009 L'Aquila earthquake, urban renewal initiatives have breathed new life into the town. It continues to enchant visitors with its cobblestone dwellings adorned with colorful blooms and climbing ivy, preserving the ambiance of bygone eras. Access to this quaint hamlet is exclusively by car, a two-hour drive from Rome or an hour from L'Aquila, with international travelers able to fly into Rome, Pescara, or L'Aquila.
Wandering through Italy's towns invariably leads to an appetite for local flavors. In Santo Stefano di Sessanio, the quest for authentic, reasonably priced meals is effortlessly fulfilled. Signature local dishes feature arrosticini, grilled lamb skewers, and spaghetti alla chitarra, a pasta crafted using a traditional wooden, wire-strung board. This pasta is typically accompanied by a rich ragu of lamb, beef, and pork, often with miniature meatballs. The area's Gran Sasso lentils, small yet intensely flavorful, are a staple of Abruzzo's culinary heritage and celebrated during the September Lentil Festival, appearing in hearty soups and alongside sausages, pizza, and cheese-filled panzerotti. Local cheeses such as pecorino, scamorza, and caciocavallo are highly esteemed. The village's cobblestone pathways are also home to artisan shops offering everything from handmade soaps and jewelry to baked goods and wool products, echoing the region's long-standing sheep-herding traditions. Hidden among the labyrinthine streets, visitors can also discover local artisanal bread, cured meats, honey, and fresh mountain cheese.
The remarkable preservation of this small village owes much to the vision of Swedish-Italian entrepreneur Daniele Kihlgren, whose 1999 restoration efforts included the innovative "albergo diffuso" concept. This involves integrating scattered historical properties into a unified hotel experience, exemplified by Sextantio Albergo Diffuso, a four-star establishment offering rooms from approximately $160. Despite facing historical adversities and natural calamities, Santo Stefano di Sessanio offers a compelling escape into a different era. Key attractions include the historic church of Anime Sante, while the town center showcases Medici family influence through structures like the Medici Tower, a 14th-century watchtower meticulously restored after the earthquake. The Porta Medicea, or Porta Urbica, with its family coat of arms, marks the village entrance, leading to a grand staircase. The Palazzo della Loggia, a Renaissance edifice, once housed Medici representatives. Along the limestone paths, one finds the Buscella, affectionately known as Vicolo dei Baci (Kiss Alley), a passage so narrow it allowed young couples a private space for romantic encounters, thus earning its charming moniker.