A remarkable milestone has been achieved in the world of extreme mountaineering, as an all-female team has successfully charted and ascended a formidable new big-wall route on Baffin Island's Eglinton Tower. This pioneering climb, spanning 550 meters with a difficulty rating of 5.11+ A0, stands as a testament to their exceptional skill and determination. The expedition not only pushed the boundaries of exploration in this remote Arctic wilderness but also marked a significant first for an all-female group in establishing such a challenging line in the region.
The intrepid team comprised Shira M. Biner, Kelly Fields, and Heather B. Smallpage, with Natalie Afonina also contributing to their ambitious endeavor. Their target, the colossal buttress of Eglinton Tower, loomed approximately 893 meters above their base camp, presenting a headwall that initially seemed insurmountable. Despite the visual intimidation and inherent dangers, they meticulously navigated over a dozen lengthy pitches, enduring a frigid bivouac en route. Upon reaching what they believed was the summit of the initial tower, a surprising discovery awaited: an additional 300-meter headwall leading to the true pinnacle.
Faced with diminishing supplies and energy, and with safety as their utmost priority, the team made the prudent decision to commence an 11-hour descent from their attained high point. This decision underscored their professionalism and commitment to responsible climbing in an unforgiving environment. One notable feature of their new line involved a tension traverse, strategically employed to bypass perilous runout sections, though the climbers speculated that with minor adjustments, the entire route could potentially be free-climbed.
Reflecting on the arduous journey, Kelly Fields shared deeply personal insights on her social media. She emphasized that her primary objective was not merely to reach the highest point, but to overcome the terrifying headwall. Battling a respiratory infection and severe blisters, her resolve was fueled by a lifelong dream, illustrating an indomitable spirit that refused to yield. Fields lauded the collective resilience of her teammates, who, despite collaborating for the first time on such an immense undertaking, demonstrated seamless teamwork and executed a highly dangerous objective with commendable style and proficiency.
The expedition itself was prefaced by an extensive and demanding approach, covering some 250 kilometers of sea ice skiing, followed by paddling along the Kogalu River, and concluding with a challenging trek through the rugged Ayr Pass. Eglinton Tower, standing at 933 meters, is situated within the remote Auyuittuq National Park's Weasel Valley, an area known for its imposing Arctic peaks, including the likes of Mount Thor and Mount Asgard. While its first documented ascent dates back to 1934 by British climbers John Hanham and Tom Longstaff, that climb focused more on peak-bagging than the technical big-wall ascents seen today. Due to its extreme remoteness, Eglinton Tower remains a rarely attempted summit, making the recent achievement all the more extraordinary and a significant contribution to the exploration history of Baffin Island.
This pioneering ascent by an all-female team on Baffin Island serves as an inspiring narrative of human endurance and the relentless pursuit of discovery in some of the planet's most austere landscapes.