On a significant morning, before the city stirred, I embarked on a pilgrimage up the iconic Fushimi Inari Shrine. This spiritual journey, marked by thousands of vermilion torii gates winding through Mount Inari, became a profound personal triumph. Arriving at 6 AM, the tranquil and misty atmosphere, punctuated by the faint scent of dew, offered a rare, intimate connection with this revered site, allowing for contemplation and capturing breathtaking vistas of Kyoto from the summit.
The cherry blossom season, or Sakura, draws millions to Japan annually, a spectacle I was fortunate to witness. While typically peaking in late March, my visit in February offered a glimpse of early plum blossoms and even a few nascent cherry blooms. Kyoto, in particular, provided a breathtaking canvas of these delicate pink flowers. From the historic grounds of Nijō Castle to the serene paths of Jonangu Shrine, surrounded by a sea of cotton-candy pink, the experience was truly mesmerizing, showcasing nature's artistry.
Japan's culinary prowess, especially its sushi, is globally renowned. My gastronomic journey led me to Kaiten Sushi Ginza Onodera in Kyoto, a high-end conveyor belt sushi establishment that redefined my perception of affordability and luxury. The quality of the fish, from seared salmon to succulent eel and fatty bluefin tuna nigiri, was exceptional, rivaling the finest dining experiences. This spot offered an unexpectedly refined and introverted-friendly dining atmosphere, proving that even a casual setting can deliver Michelin-star worthy cuisine.
Unbeknownst to me when planning my February trip, my visit coincided with the Chinese New Year. A spontaneous decision led me to Kobe, a city celebrated for its beef but equally vibrant during this festive period. The atmosphere was electric, filled with joyous crowds, enticing street food aromas, vibrant red decorations, and dynamic dragon dances. Being immersed in such a significant cultural celebration, marking the Year of the Wood Dragon, was an unforgettable experience that added an unexpected layer of richness to my Japanese adventure.
In Nara, a city easily accessible from Kyoto, I encountered a remarkable herd of deer that roam freely within Nara Park. Unlike their cautious counterparts in my homeland, these 1,300 deer were remarkably docile, even bowing politely in exchange for special wafers. This unique interaction, witnessing animals in such a harmonious, open environment, was deeply moving. Beyond the deer, Nara Park also houses an incredibly beautiful temple, adding to the city's allure as a tranquil retreat.
Tokyo's Omoide Yokocho, affectionately known as Memory Lane, in Shinjuku, captivated me with its narrow, lantern-lit alleyways teeming with life. This atmospheric district, a stone's throw from the train station, houses over 60 diverse eateries serving everything from yakitori to ramen, alongside cozy bars. Despite traveling solo, the lively and social ambiance made it effortless to connect with both locals and fellow travelers, offering a genuine taste of Tokyo's vibrant nightlife and culinary scene.
Just south of Tokyo's bustling center lies Gōtokuji Temple, a captivating Buddhist sanctuary renowned for its thousands of Maneki Neko, or lucky cat, statues. This 15th-century temple is a delightful blend of majesty and charm. Visitors can purchase their own lucky cat, inscribe a wish, and add it to the ever-growing collection, believing it will usher in good fortune. My contribution to this feline army, a small cat statue bearing my hopes, remains a cherished memory of this unique cultural immersion.
Kyoto's Nishiki Market, a culinary landmark dating back to 1615, was a paradise for a food enthusiast like myself. This "foodie heaven" offers a fascinating blend of history and delectable treats. Unlike markets in other regions, Japan's safety allowed me to wander leisurely, sampling everything from rich wagyu gyoza to refreshing honeycomb soft serve. The market’s array of fresh produce and prepared dishes provided a true sensory delight, embodying the essence of Japanese cuisine.
Having previously encountered wild monkeys that were, frankly, intimidating, I approached Arashiyama's Monkey Park with caution. However, the macaque monkeys here were a pleasant surprise. Over 120 of them inhabit the natural landscape, displaying a surprising level of cordiality. The unique experience of entering a caged area to feed peanuts to eager monkey hands, creating a delightful role reversal, became an especially memorable and heartwarming part of my journey, showcasing a different side of wildlife interaction.
Despite my usual preference for other meats, the allure of authentic Japanese wagyu beef was undeniable. I sought out Yakiniku Steak Iwai in Kyoto, an intimate establishment where a skilled chef meticulously prepared the marbled delicacy right before my eyes. The exceptional tenderness and unparalleled flavor, a result of the wagyu breed's unique fat distribution, transformed my perception of red meat. Each bite was a revelation, proving the global renown of this gourmet delight.
Don Quijote, Japan's colossal multi-floored discount chain, proved to be an overwhelming yet exhilarating shopping experience. With over 600 locations, these stores are a vibrant sensory overload of loud music and bustling crowds. Despite the initial chaos, Don Quijote is a treasure trove of unique Japanese goods, from cosmetics and snacks to electronics and toys. My visit resulted in a suitcase half-filled with eclectic finds, showcasing its undeniable appeal for any visitor seeking distinctive souvenirs.
Tokyo's teamLab Planets offered an otherworldly artistic immersion, making it a highlight for any travel photographer or family. This innovative museum transcends traditional art spaces, featuring unique interactive installations. One room, filled with ankle-deep water, glowed with holographic fish, while another shimmered with countless iridescent lights, creating a celestial purgatory. The element of surprise, encountering each distinct exhibit without prior knowledge, amplified the wonder, truly blurring the lines between reality and art.
Beyond traditional souvenirs, Japan offers a charming custom of omikuji, or fortune-telling slips, found at temples and on city streets. My fascination with these miniature prognosticators grew with each encounter; whether receiving a positive reading to cherish or a negative one to discard, each interaction felt deeply personal. These simple paper fortunes, along with various temple charms, became cherished mementos, weaving a thread of traditional Japanese spirituality into my travel narrative.
Even for someone accustomed to mountain landscapes, witnessing Mount Fuji for the first time was an awe-inspiring experience. Standing over 12,000 feet tall, its peak often shrouded in clouds, Japan's iconic cultural symbol is even grander in person. A guided day trip allowed me to appreciate its majestic beauty from prime vantage points like Lake Kawaguchi and the picturesque village of Oshino Hakkai. This comprehensive tour, complete with a delightful local lunch, solidified Mount Fuji's place as a truly magnificent natural wonder.