European travel authority Rick Steves has identified a delightful alternative for travelers looking to experience Croatia's authentic charm away from its bustling coastal hubs. Instead of the well-trodden shores, he advocates for exploring the country's enchanting hill towns, particularly those nestled in the Istrian Peninsula. These elevated settlements offer a rich tapestry of history, art, and serene landscapes, providing a distinctive and less crowded travel experience compared to popular coastal destinations like Dubrovnik or Šibenik.
Exploring Croatia's Istrian Gems: Rick Steves' Hill Town Recommendations
In a recent travel insight shared on September 13, 2025, acclaimed travel writer Rick Steves presented a compelling argument for diverting from Croatia's famed Adriatic coastline. While cities such as Dubrovnik and Šibenik, along with the romantic island towns of Dalmatia and the vineyards of the Pelješac Peninsula, undeniably possess immense appeal, their popularity often leads to significant crowds. Steves suggests a compelling alternative: the less-explored, yet equally captivating, hill towns of the Istrian Peninsula in northwestern Croatia.
Steves' recommendations focus on Istria, a region shaped like an arrowhead that boasts a history influenced by both Roman and Venetian cultures. The area is adorned with vineyards and olive groves that cling to its hillsides, dotted with charming towns. While Pula serves as Istria's primary port city, renowned for its ancient ruins reminiscent of Rome, Steves emphasizes the idyllic nature of smaller, elevated settlements.
Among his top picks are Grožnjan and Motovun. Grožnjan, an ancient town characterized by its cobbled pathways and olive trees, has experienced a cultural renaissance, becoming a haven for artists seeking refuge from urban life. Its history dates back to the Neolithic period, gaining significance around the 12th century. Today, visitors can admire remnants of its ancient city walls and a stately church spire, while enjoying annual dance, drama workshops, and jazz performances that fill its streets. The town's olive groves produce some of the finest olive oil in the Adriatic region.
Motovun, perhaps the more widely recognized of Steves' favorites, is celebrated for its breathtaking beauty. This fortress town, perched 886 feet above the Mirna River valley, offers panoramic views of Istria's sun-drenched vineyards. Its streets feature colorful storefronts, family-owned truffle shops, and ancient ramparts. A visit to the Church of St. Stephen, located near the main square, reveals a late-Renaissance architectural marvel housing a marble statue of its patron saint and a 17th-century painting of the Last Supper by an anonymous Venetian artist.
Beyond these two gems, other Istrian hill towns beckon exploration. Buje, known as the \"Sentinel of Istria\" and located six miles inland, blends ancient stone structures with Venetian design. Despite its rich heritage, Buje remains relatively untouched by mass tourism, offering a more tranquil experience. Hum, remarkably regarded as the world's smallest town with a population of approximately 50, enchants visitors with its untouched, fairytale-like ambiance and a prominent church that grants it its \"town\" status. Finally, Gračišće, referred to as the \"Slavic Olympus,\" boasts a 2,000-year history, thriving during the medieval era with fortress walls and Romanesque gates. Unique in its design, Gračišće is divided into distinct districts, each featuring its own square and church. Here, travelers can savor local delicacies like truffle pasta paired with exquisite Istrian wine.
This insight from Rick Steves underscores a vital travel principle: true discovery often lies off the beaten path. By choosing these Croatian hill towns, travelers can bypass the usual tourist throngs, gaining a deeper appreciation for the country's rich history, vibrant artistic communities, and stunning natural beauty. It's a reminder that authentic cultural immersion and serene experiences often await those willing to venture beyond popular coastal attractions.