American ultrarunner Tyler Andrews has declared his intention to return to Mount Everest this autumn to pursue the coveted speed record for an ascent without supplemental oxygen. This ambitious endeavor, following several unsuccessful attempts earlier in the year, underscores Andrews' unwavering determination to achieve a challenging mountaineering milestone. His strategy for this unique fall expedition focuses on a lean, self-reliant approach, aiming to capitalize on the distinct conditions of Everest outside the popular spring climbing season.

Andrews' decision to undertake this challenging climb in the fall season presents a significantly more formidable task compared to the bustling spring period. Nevertheless, he has meticulously devised a comprehensive plan. His journey to Nepal is slated for mid-September, with the summit push anticipated during the initial week of October. This commitment led him to forego participation in the renowned Ultra-Trail du Mont Blanc (UTMB), highlighting his singular focus on the Everest record. He conveyed to ExplorersWeb that while the undertaking is inherently arduous, he firmly believes its successful completion is within his capabilities.

During the previous spring season, Andrews launched three separate attempts to achieve a rapid ascent of Everest. His initial bid was thwarted by a critical equipment malfunction. The subsequent attempt, which involved the use of supplementary oxygen, was regrettably terminated by the expedition organizer due to perilous weather conditions. In a final, spontaneous effort, he was compelled to retreat shortly after reaching Camp 4. Notably, he was not the sole individual aiming for a speed record at that time; Karl Egloff from Ecuador also pursued a round-trip, no-oxygen record from Base Camp, but withdrew after encountering extreme cold below Camp 3.

Reflecting on his past experiences, Andrews shared his initial feelings of profound disappointment. He confessed that for about half a day following his spring failures, he was convinced he would never return to the mountain. However, a shift in perspective occurred after returning to Kathmandu, allowing him to regain his confidence. He is now convinced that the record is attainable, provided all elements align perfectly. He lamented that if not for the equipment issue, the challenging weather, or his fatigue, one of his prior attempts would undoubtedly have succeeded.

Financially, Andrews is not shouldering the entire burden of this fall expedition alone, as another climbing team is also planning an Everest ascent during the same period. He anticipates a dramatically less crowded mountain, with only about a dozen individuals expected, a stark contrast to the thousands present in spring. This reduced presence, he believes, will eliminate traffic jams and enable him to select optimal weather windows without competition for summit opportunities. While the identities of the other climbers remain largely unknown to Andrews, he understands that Seven Summit Treks is facilitating their expedition, and Asian Trekking will also be supporting two commercial clients.

Andrews has embraced a streamlined logistical strategy for this attempt. He revealed that his team will comprise solely himself and Dawa Steven, who will manage the logistics. His plan is to climb independently, with a single individual positioned at Camp 4 (8,000m) to provide emergency support. This minimalist approach is designed to minimize potential points of failure and enhance his self-reliance, even if it means carrying a greater amount of personal gear during the climb.

The autumn season on Everest presents unique challenges distinct from those of spring. Typically, there's a greater accumulation of snow from the summer monsoon, which can elevate the risk of avalanches. However, this increased snowfall also has the benefit of filling in crevasses and creating more direct routes through the infamous Khumbu Icefall. Andrews acknowledges that stable weather windows are generally less frequent in autumn, but with a significantly smaller number of climbers on the mountain, his team will have the flexibility to be much more selective about their timing for the summit push.

Andrews' primary objective is to surpass the current no-oxygen speed record of 20 hours and 24 minutes, which was established in 1998 by Kazi Sherpa for the ascent from Base Camp to the summit. He highlighted the significant impact of supplementary oxygen, noting that the fastest time recorded with it is a mere 10 hours and 56 minutes, underscoring the immense difficulty of his chosen challenge. While Kazi Sherpa utilized oxygen for his descent, Andrews has not yet disclosed his strategy for the return journey. However, in his previous attempts, his focus was primarily on a one-way Base Camp-to-summit record, implying that the method of descent may not be a critical factor in his overall record attempt.