While New England often garners attention for its vibrant fall colors, the American West presents a distinct and equally captivating autumn experience. Imagine red sandstone formations bathed in the crisp autumn air, creating a breathtaking contrast against the changing leaves. For those seeking an unforgettable American road trip or simply wishing to witness the West's unparalleled autumnal vistas, the Red Gulch/Alkali Backcountry Byway in Wyoming offers an exceptional, off-the-beaten-path adventure. Affectionately dubbed the \"road less traveled\" by the Wyoming Office of Tourism, this picturesque route spans 32 miles and can be comfortably explored in approximately two hours, though its numerous significant sites warrant a more leisurely pace.
The journey along this scenic byway commences in Shell, a charming town in Wyoming, situated north of U.S. Highway 14. Travelers can reach the northern end of the byway in about an hour from Yellowstone Regional Airport, though this airport primarily handles flights from Denver. For those preferring fewer transfers, the larger Billings-Logan International Airport is a viable option, located roughly 2.5 hours away. The remote nature of this byway contributes to its pristine, untamed beauty, offering expansive views that are particularly stunning under the clear skies of autumn. Portions of the route even hug the boundary of the undeveloped Alkali Creek Wilderness Study Area, where cottonwood trees transform into a spectacular golden hue during the fall season.
What truly sets the Red Gulch/Alkali Backcountry Byway apart are its remarkable attractions, which unveil the unexpected history and raw splendor of this secluded western landscape. Roughly five miles into the drive, adventurers will encounter the Red Gulch Dinosaur Tracksite, the largest of its kind in Wyoming. Here, a well-preserved collection of dinosaur footprints, dating back an astonishing 160 to 180 million years, is etched into the limestone rockbed. A well-maintained boardwalk with informative signs guides visitors along the tracks, allowing for an immersive experience. Visitors are also permitted to step directly onto these prehistoric imprints. The site is a popular spot for fossil hunting, and unearthed specimens, excluding vertebrate or petrified wood fossils, can be taken home as unique souvenirs.
As the journey progresses southward, the dramatic, jagged peaks of the Bighorn Mountains frame the drive, providing a magnificent backdrop to some of the most extraordinary rock formations. Throughout the route, travelers are treated to panoramic views of the canyons, cliffs, and caves that comprise the iconic Chugwater formation, distinguished by its deep red, angular rock. Layered, fortress-like cliffs ascend from badlands dotted with sagebrush, as the byway winds past not only the Alkali Creek Wilderness Study Area but also the Medicine Lodge Wilderness Study Area. Within this rugged terrain, opportunities abound for wildlife viewing; bighorn sheep can often be spotted during hikes along the Medicine Lodge Canyon, and fishing is a popular activity in its tranquil creek.
Just east of the main route lies an awe-inspiring destination for those fascinated by ancient art: the Medicine Lodge Archaeological Site. This remarkable site showcases hundreds of petroglyphs, intricately carved by ancient native civilizations onto a 700-foot-long sandstone cliff. Admission is free, and the site welcomes visitors year-round. However, for a more enriching experience, planning a visit between April and the end of October allows access to the park's interpretive museums, thoughtfully housed within historic log cabins, offering deeper insights into the region's rich cultural heritage.