The challenging ascent of Ulugh Muztagh in 1985 stands as a testament to human endeavor and international cooperation. For nearly a century, this remote peak, often referred to as the 'Great Icy Mountain' and nestled within the vast Quinghai-Tibetan Plateau, remained shrouded in mystery regarding its actual elevation. An ambitious joint expedition, comprising American and Chinese mountaineers, not only achieved the first confirmed summit but also definitively measured its altitude, dispelling earlier, exaggerated estimations. This monumental journey was more than just a conquest of a mountain; it symbolized a pioneering bridge between cultures, paving the way for future collaborative ventures in a previously inaccessible territory. The expedition's success, despite facing numerous obstacles, underscored the power of shared goals and mutual support in overcoming extreme challenges, leaving an indelible mark on the annals of mountaineering history.
Pioneering Ascent: The 1985 Ulugh Muztagh Expedition
The quest to conquer the formidable Ulugh Muztagh, a peak previously unscaled and inaccurately mapped, culminated in a landmark joint American-Chinese expedition in the autumn of 1985. This ambitious undertaking was sparked by Eric Shipton's long-held fascination with the mysterious mountain, a vision enthusiastically embraced by veteran climbers Robert H. Bates and Nick Clinch. After years of persistent diplomatic efforts to secure access to the then-restricted Chinese region, approval was finally granted in May 1985, setting the stage for this historic climb.
The American contingent, affectionately dubbed a 'geriatric but good' team by Clinch, included the venerable 74-year-old Robert H. Bates, the expedition's surveyor; the meticulous organizer Nick Clinch; Pete Schoening, renowned for his K2 heroics; Dr. Tom Hornbein, the climbing leader and physician; and robust climbers Jeff Foott and Dennis Hennek. Geologists Peter Molnar and Clark Burchfiel also joined, adding a scientific dimension to the endeavor. The substantial Chinese team consisted of 16 climbers and 27 support personnel, with prominent climbers like Hu Feng Ling, Zhang Baohua, Ardaxi, Mamuti, and Wu Qiangxing, and logistical masterminds Wang Zheng Hua and Lu Ming. Interpreter Guo played a crucial role in bridging the linguistic divide.
On September 11, 1985, the American team embarked from San Francisco, laden with 87 bags of specialized gear, including advanced survey instruments. Their arduous 1,100-kilometer overland journey to the mountain's base camp, located at a challenging 5,300 meters on the east side, spanned ten demanding days. Traversing vast deserts and rugged mountains, the convoy utilized seven army trucks, three Land Rovers, and two jeeps, stopping in cities like Korla and the historic Ro-jeng, where Marco Polo once journeyed. The journey highlighted the extreme remoteness of Ulugh Muztagh, surrounded by an empty, high-altitude landscape. Upon arrival, a crucial satellite surveyor antenna was discovered missing, necessitating a rapid delivery by a Chinese Mountaineering Association jeep team.
Despite the initial plan for acclimatization, the expedition quickly commenced the ascent, setting up Camp 1 at the glacier's edge and pushing supplies to Camp 2, approximately 10 kilometers up the glacier. Robert H. Bates, unable to manage heavy loads, remained at base camp to oversee the critical survey operations, which determined the mountain's true height to be 6,987 meters, significantly less than George Littledale's century-old estimation. The climb itself proved exceptionally difficult, marked by hidden crevasses, unpredictable loose snow, and treacherous ice walls, all compounded by severe weather conditions. Mid-October brought relentless snowstorms, burying Camp 2 and elevating avalanche risks. On October 13, Schoening, Hornbein, and Burchfiel attempted to establish Camp 3 amidst fierce winds and heavy snowfall. Clinch, battling a severe cold, returned to base camp.
On October 20, a window of favorable weather allowed the Chinese climbers at Camp 3 to advance to Camp 4, positioned close to the summit. The following day, October 21, at precisely 7:28 PM, five Chinese climbers—Hu Feng Ling, Zhang Baohua, Ardaxi, Mamuti, and Wu Qiangxing—victoriously reached the summit. However, the triumph was quickly overshadowed by anxiety as the summit team encountered difficulties during their descent, taking an unexpected route and facing grave peril.
The next morning, Schoening's team spotted two climbers, one immobile and the other desperately seeking help, having fallen over 500 meters. The American team immediately abandoned their own summit ambitions to initiate a perilous rescue. Clinch, ascending from Camp 2, joined the rescue efforts. Hu Feng Ling suffered from severe frostbite and contusions, while his companion also sustained injuries. Hornbein and Hennek provided critical medical care at Camp 2. The interpreter, Guo, deeply moved by the selfless American efforts, declared, "Americans must be the kindest people in the world."
With the injured climbers requiring immediate attention, further summit attempts were foregone. By October 23, the entire expedition began its descent from the mountain. The arduous process of transporting Hu Feng Ling, slow and painful, meant the team only reached base camp on October 24. Cold, exhausted, and low on provisions, they packed up and commenced the long drive back. Their return was met with jubilant celebrations: in Ro-jeng, dancing girls greeted them, and in Korla, thousands cheered with firecrackers and flowers. A grand dinner, featuring a roasted sheep, was hosted in Urumchi's Great Hall of the People, symbolizing the profound friendship forged during the expedition.
Though Ulugh Muztagh was found to be lower than once believed, this expedition achieved far more than a mere measurement. It showcased a profound example of international collaboration, demonstrating how diverse groups can unite and triumph over extreme adversity. For Bates and Clinch, the successful ascent honored Eric Shipton's enduring fascination with uncharted peaks, a quiet toast shared for a dream realized.
The extraordinary journey to Ulugh Muztagh in 1985 reminds us that true exploration transcends the mere conquering of geographical peaks. It is a powerful narrative about human resilience, the spirit of international collaboration, and the profound bonds forged through shared challenges in the planet's most unforgiving landscapes. As a journalist, I see this as a compelling story not just about mountaineering, but about diplomacy and human kindness. In a world often fragmented, such narratives of cross-cultural cooperation are invaluable, teaching us that the greatest achievements often come from working together, especially when facing monumental obstacles. This expedition's legacy extends beyond cartography; it illuminates the potential for unity in exploration, a beacon for future endeavors.