Beyond the bustling streets of Amsterdam, the Netherlands harbors a profound and delicious cheese heritage, a fact underscored by renowned travel authority Rick Steves. For those seeking an immersive journey into the heart of Dutch dairy traditions, Steves points to the charming towns of Edam and Alkmaar. These locales, rich in history and vibrant with artisanal production, offer a more authentic and comprehensive experience of the country's celebrated cheese culture than the capital city alone. From historic cheese markets to dedicated museums and specialty shops, these destinations present a compelling case for any cheese enthusiast looking to savor the true flavors of the Low Countries.
Edam, an idyllic town crisscrossed by serene canals and adorned with well-preserved 17th-century architecture, is celebrated for its namesake cheese. This semi-hard variety, akin to a mild cheddar, stands as the second most-exported Dutch cheese after Gouda. Edam's versatility makes it a kitchen staple, equally at home in sandwiches, as part of a sophisticated wine pairing, or melted into a savory baked dish. The town's historical significance in the cheese trade dates back to the Dutch Golden Age when it thrived as a prosperous port, largely due to its weekly cheese market and exports. Visitors can still explore the historic market square, which for centuries was the epicenter of this commerce. During the summer months, the market reawakens every Wednesday, offering a theatrical re-enactment of its past, complete with period costumes and generous samples of local cheeses. The 18th-century Kaaswaag, where cheese was traditionally weighed, now serves as a fascinating museum, further enriching the visitor's understanding of Edam's cheese legacy. For those whose visits don't coincide with market days, establishments like Wijn en Kaasspeciaalzaak Edam provide an excellent opportunity to explore a wide selection of cheeses, including those from the esteemed Henri Willig's farm, known for its Gouda production. Just outside town, the Alida Hoeve cheese farm and clog factory offers another pastoral setting for sampling local delicacies.
Further north, approximately 35 minutes from Amsterdam by rail, lies Alkmaar, a city often hailed as the Netherlands' cheese capital. This captivating destination also boasts a network of canals, alongside an array of distinctive museums covering topics from Dutch history to beer and even The Beatles. Alkmaar is particularly renowned for its vibrant cheese market, a tradition stretching back to the late 16th century. Each Friday from March to September, the Waagplein square transforms into a bustling spectacle. By 9:30 a.m., an astonishing 2,400 cheese wheels, collectively weighing close to 67,000 pounds (30,000 kilograms), are meticulously arranged on the cobblestones. This market is a must-visit for anyone in Alkmaar on a spring or summer weekend, offering an unparalleled glimpse into the scale and tradition of Dutch cheese commerce. The experience is enhanced by boats laden with cheese wheels gliding along the canals, while performers in traditional Dutch attire play accordions. The market's opening is heralded by the ringing of a bell, signaling the start of cheese inspections before the wheels are transported to the weighing house. Engaging emcees explain the process to captivated tourists, who are often treated to samples. Surrounding the Waagplein, numerous stalls offer an extensive range of Dutch cheeses and other local specialties, including miniature pancakes, making it a comprehensive culinary adventure.
Alkmaar's cheese offerings extend beyond its famous market, with numerous exceptional cheese shops scattered throughout the city. Kaas van Daan, recognized as the Netherlands' best cheesemonger in 2022 and boasting a high rating on Google, is an exemplary starting point. Here, visitors can sample characterful boerenkaas from the Daan Jong farm or the creamy Beemster cheeses. This shop's collaboration with a bakery, butcher, greengrocer, and pastry shop makes it an ideal spot to assemble a magnificent picnic spread. Given the region's strong association with Gouda, delightful varieties of this cheese are readily available in shops across Alkmaar, including Alkmaarse Notenbranderij, Smit's Boer & Goed, Jelmer's Cheese Shop, and The Cheese Storage. A significant part of the charm lies in exploring Alkmaar's historic streets and discovering these hidden gems for oneself, immersing in the authentic local flavor. These towns collectively offer a rich tapestry of Dutch cheese culture, inviting travelers to delve deeper into the traditions that have shaped this beloved national product.