Ascending the Untouched: A Himalayan Challenge Beckons
The Upcoming Expedition to an Unclimbed Summit
The 2025 iteration of the esteemed Japan Himalaya Camp is setting its sights on an formidable objective: the pristine, unclimbed peak of Bijora Hiunchuli, standing majestically at 6,111 meters within the remote landscapes of Western Nepal. A contingent of youthful, aspiring Japanese mountaineers, under the astute leadership of the renowned climber Yasuhiro Hanatani, is poised to undertake the ascent of its captivating and demanding northwest ridge.
Nurturing the Next Generation of High-Altitude Explorers
Initiated by the Japan Alpine Club (JAC) in 2015, the Himalaya Camp represents an annual commitment to preserving and passing on the profound heritage of Japanese mountaineering to future generations. This program meticulously selects individuals in their twenties and thirties who possess minimal or no prior international climbing experience, subjecting them to a rigorous training regimen spanning several months. The culmination of this intensive preparation is the actual 'camp' – a grand Himalayan expedition aimed at achieving first ascents on unclimbed 6,000-meter peaks, thereby cementing their legacy.
Venturing into Lesser-Known Territories
Consistent with its established ethos, the 2025 expedition is characterized by its inherent exploratory nature, particularly given the limited existing information regarding their chosen region. The inspiration to pursue Bijora Hiunchuli stemmed from the reconnaissance conducted by the 2024 Himalaya Camp team during their previous year's ascent in the vicinity, underscoring the collaborative and progressive spirit of the initiative.
The Strategic Approach and Historical Context
The team's journey will commence with a demanding trek from Pele village, situated in Western Nepal, navigating their path towards the glacier convergence point known as Bhot Khola. It is noteworthy that historical records indicate the passage of other climbing parties through the Bhot Khola Junction. Further to the northeast lies Sanctuary Peak, a summit that achieved its first successful climb at the hands of the 2024 expedition team.
Veteran Leadership Guiding Aspiring Climbers
Leading this ambitious endeavor is Yasuhiro Hanatani, a 48-year-old mountaineering veteran whose resume boasts impressive first ascents, including Ratna Chuli (7,035m) in Nepal in 1996, and the south pillar of Kyashal (6,770m) in Nepal in 2013, an achievement that earned him the prestigious Piolet d’Or award. Hanatani will guide a talented team comprising Masatake Higa (24), Masayuki Takenaka (35), Sota Kodama (35), Mei Okajima (27), and Akiyoshi Tanaka (36).
Embracing the Alpine Style Ethos for a Pure Ascent
According to reports from the American Alpine Journal, Bijora Hiunchuli saw an attempt in 2013 by French climber Paulo Grobel. As detailed in his account, Bijora Hiunchuli is a subsidiary summit positioned on the northwest ridge of Kasi Dalpha (6,386m). Grobel noted the peak's prominent visibility from Jumla airport and its relatively straightforward access. Grobel's team also aimed for the north-northwest ridge, which he described as offering an 'elegant route' to the summit, employing alpine style without success. This approach aligns perfectly with the Japanese team’s objective, as they too intend to climb without the aid of fixed ropes or the support of porters, upholding the purist principles of alpine mountaineering.