Ascending Dreams: A Dolomite Triumph

A Pioneering Ascent in the Dolomites

On the final day of August, the climbing duo of Simon Gietl and Davide Prandini achieved a significant milestone by executing a free ascent of the challenging 'Identitat' route. This formidable climb is situated on the western face of Mittlerer Zwolferkofel, a prominent peak within the captivating Dolomites mountain range. This feat comes two years after Gietl's initial solo establishment of the route, marking a new chapter in its history.

Mastering the Limestone: A Technical Challenge

The climbers assessed the route's difficulty at an impressive 8+/9-, signifying a high level of technical proficiency required for successful negotiation. In line with Gietl's established principles of minimizing environmental disturbance, no artificial aid was employed beyond leaving existing pitons in place. Following their triumphant free ascent, Gietl and Prandini chose the standard southern face for their descent, completing their challenging endeavor.

The Legacy of Mittlerer Zwolferkofel: A Climber's Identity

In 2023, Gietl articulated his deep connection to this 500-meter pathway, then graded at 8 and A1, describing it as a profound expression of his mountaineering essence. For Gietl, the route embodied the spirit of adventure and the personal satisfaction derived from a project meticulously envisioned over a decade. The Mittlerer Zwolferkofel, also known as Croda Antonio Berti, stands proudly at 3,011 meters within the Sexten Dolomites, located in South Tyrol, Italy. It forms part of the larger Zwolferkofel massif, whose primary summit reaches an elevation of 3,094 meters. The Dolomites are celebrated globally for their dramatic and distinctive limestone formations, making the Mittlerer Zwolferkofel a particularly esteemed destination for climbers due to its demanding lines and rich historical context in mountaineering.

The Historical Significance of Dolomite Climbing

The main summit of Zwolferkofel, often regarded as the most picturesque peak in the Sextner Dolomites, witnessed its inaugural ascent in 1874. This pioneering climb was accomplished by Michael and Johann Innerkofler via the southern face. Michael Innerkofler holds a significant place in the annals of Dolomite climbing, having also achieved the first ascents of Cima Ovest and Cima Piccola, both integral components of the iconic Tre Cime di Lavaredo.