In a monumental feat of mountaineering, Italian climbers Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori have successfully completed the inaugural winter ascent of the Casarotto Route on Fitz Roy\u2019s Goretta Pillar (3,405m). This achievement represents a significant milestone in the history of Patagonian alpinism, undertaken with the backing of the Italian Alpine Club (CAI) and the Ragni di Lecco group.

Their expedition, which began in early August, aimed to conquer the renowned northern face \u2014 a visionary path first charted solo by the legendary Renato Casarotto in January 1979 \u2014 under the harshest winter conditions. After an initial attempt was thwarted by brutal cold and winds, Della Bordella and Majori pressed on, eventually seizing a narrow weather window to complete their challenging three-day ascent. Their journey not only added a new chapter to the mountain's climbing legacy but also served as a profound homage to Casarotto's pioneering spirit, further solidifying the route's formidable reputation.

Pioneering the Casarotto Route in Winter

The recent first winter ascent of the Casarotto Route on Fitz Roy by Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori stands as a testament to human endurance and skill in extreme environments. This historic climb on the formidable Goretta Pillar was a direct challenge to the severe conditions of Patagonian winter, characterized by intensely short days, temperatures plummeting to -20\u00b0C at night, and barely reaching 5\u00b0C during the day. The route itself spans 1,300 meters across 35 pitches, presenting technical difficulties up to grade VII, along with aid sections. The Italian team's persistence, following an initial failed attempt due to incapacitating cold, highlights their unwavering commitment to achieving this mountaineering milestone, transforming a summer challenge into a winter triumph.

Supported by prestigious organizations like the Italian Alpine Club and the Ragni di Lecco group, Della Bordella and Majori embarked on this ambitious expedition from Italy, reaching El Chalten after a demanding journey. Their objective was to tackle a route originally soloed by Renato Casarotto, facing winter conditions that significantly reduced climbing time and amplified the physical demands. After patiently awaiting a favorable weather window, they initiated their final push, bivouacking on the wall before successfully reaching the summit. This ascent not only underscores their exceptional climbing prowess but also their ability to strategize and adapt to one of the world's most unforgiving alpine environments, echoing Casarotto's own bold and self-reliant climbing philosophy.

Renato Casarotto's Enduring Legacy

Renato Casarotto, born in Italy in 1948, was a master of solo and winter ascents, leaving an indelible mark on alpinism before his untimely death on K2 in 1986. His achievements, including notable winter climbs in the Alps and Himalaya, were characterized by audacious exploration and a pioneering spirit. In Patagonia, Casarotto's enduring legacy is most profoundly embodied by the route on Fitz Roy dedicated to his wife, Goretta Traverso. This route, which he completed solo in January 1979, was the first and only solo-opened line on the massif, marking him as a visionary in the climbing world. Its technical demands and exposure have kept it among Patagonia's most challenging and rarely repeated climbs, cementing its legendary status.

Casarotto's solo ascent of Fitz Roy in 1979 was a feat of remarkable self-reliance, especially considering his initial climbing group had departed. With only radio support from his wife at Base Camp, he persevered through a failed attempt before successfully topping out. The dedication of the north pillar to Goretta further underscores the personal and deeply committed nature of his climbs. Fitz Roy itself is renowned for its sharp granite and unpredictable weather, having seen its first summer ascent in 1952 by a French team and its first confirmed winter ascent much later in 1986. Casarotto's unique approach and the subsequent completion of his route in winter conditions by Della Bordella and Majori pay homage to his bold style, ensuring his place in climbing history as an icon of determination and innovation.